Rock Climbing

Rock Climbing Route Closure Update – Effective May 13, 2016

Poko

Effective Friday, May 13, 2016, the Adirondack rock climbing routes closed to protect nesting Peregrine falcons are revised as follows:

Poko

Wilmington Notch – All routes on Moss Cliff and Labor Day Wall remain closed.

Chapel Pond – All routes on the Upper Washbowl Cliffs are now open to climbing, all routes on the Lower Washbowl Cliffs remain closed.

Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain – All routes on the Main Face remain closed except the following routes described on pages 39-45 of Adirondack Rock – A Rock Climber’s Guide:

1. Opposition
2. Goat’s Foot on Rock
3. High and Dry
4. Bushmaster
5. Big Buddha
6. Bushido
7. Bodacious
8. Pearly Gates
9. Kaibob
10. Battle Creek
11. Static Cling
12. Certified Raw
13. Air Male
14. Son of a Mother
15. Phase III
16. Bastard
17. Ladder
18. Puppies on Edge
19. Hang ‘Em High
20 Group Therapy
21. Adonis
22. Pandemonium
23. Discord
24. A Womb with a View

Crane Mountain – All routes within the Amphitheater on the Black Arches Wall (from #86 “Project” to #97 “Gun Show”) remain closed.  All other climbing routes on Crane Mountain are now open.

Shelving Rock Mountain – All routes on the Main Wall are now open to climbing.  All routes on the Big Wall and Jackass Buttress are now closed.  This includes all routes from #52 “Enduro Man” to #66 “Winds of Change”, and the approach trail that accesses these routes.  Please use the lower approach trail that ascends the talus below the Main Wall.

Current route closure information will be posted at trailheads and online at: http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/7870.html

DEC appreciates the cooperation of the climbing community.  Efforts are still underway to determine the nest locations at Poke-O-Moonshine Mountain and Moss Cliff.  Additional updates will be sent out as they become available.

REEL ROCK 11

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Thank you to everyone who came and supported The Mountaineer and REEL ROCK Film Tour

for the fifth year in a row!

 

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Mountaineer Store Logo

 

We hope to see everyone again in the Fall of 17′ at The Keene Arts Center

 

All Adirondack Rock Routes are Now OPEN!

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All Adirondack Rock Routes are Now Open!
Peregrine

Peregrine falcons, an endangered species in New York State, nest on cliffs in the Adirondack Mountains. The population of peregrine falcons has steadily grown since the DEC undertook hacking programs in the Adirondacks in the late 1970s.

Cliffs with known peregrine falcon nesting sites are monitored annually throughout the Adirondacks. Rock climbing routes with active nest sites are temporarily closed to prevent any disturbances that might interfere with the successful raising of the young peregrine falcons.

The closure of climbing routes is based on a number of factors, primarily the route’s proximity and visibility to a nesting site. Each situation is unique and a specific distance from the nest site can not be used to make a closure determination. DEC’s priority is protecting an endangered species; however, attempts are made to maximize the opportunities for climbing at the same time.

At the beginning of the season DEC closes whole or large portions of cliffs where peregrine falcons have regularly nested. This allows them to choose a nesting site without any being troubled by climbing activity. They often choose a site quickly and begin nesting earlier, than when the cliff’s were subject to climbing activities. Climbers benefit because an earlier nesting start results in an earlier fledging of the young and therefore the closed routes are re-opened sooner.

As of July 16, 2015

The following cliffs or sections of cliffs are closed to climbers to allow peregrine falcons to raise their young undisturbed. Routes are reopened when the young falcons have fledged and left the nest.

Crane Mountain

All rock climbing routes are open.

Wilmington Notch

All climbing routes on Moss Cliff are open.

Poke-o-Moonshine Mountain

All rock climbing routes are open.

Chapel Pond

All rock climbing routes on Upper and Lower Washbowl Cliffs are open.

Lake George Eastern Shore

On Shelving Rock the following climbing routes on the Main Wall (left of Wake and Bake Buttress) from the Snakecharmer Corner to Infinity Crack remain closed:

  • Lunar Manscaping
  • Snakecharmer
  • Thunder Down Under
  • Hackett Corner
  • Grin and Bear It
  • Price is Right
  • Gong Show
  • Doodlebug
  • Rock Lobster
  • Footloose
  • Dirty Dancing
  • Just Take It
  • Rusty Lumberjack
  • Claimjumper
  • Project X
  • Infinity and Beyond

All other climbing routes on Shelving Rock are open.

DEC appreciates the patience and understanding of the rock climbing community.

If you are subject to aggressive behavior by peregrine falcons while climbing please climb down immediately and report the incident to the DEC as soon as possible. Reports and questions can be directed to the DEC Region 5 Wildlife Office at 518-897-1291.

Grivel K6G Mega Twin Gate Carabiner

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The Mountaineer is one of a few select shops in the U.S. carrying Grivel’s new Mega KG6 Twin Gate Carabiner.

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Grivel Mega KG6 Twin Gate Carabiner

The Mega KG6, with its two opposing solid gates, is considered an auto-locking carabiner, making it safe as a belay ‘biner, an anchor master point, or as a replacement for a traditional locker in any situation that demands the extra security of a locking carabiner. The KG6′s unique twin-gate design stays closed and effectively stays “locked” thanks to its opposing gates.

The Mega has a sleek, streamlined design that works for the bolt-end of quickdraws, and you can easily tie Munter hitches once you get to the anchor. Ice and alpine climbers will appreciate the twin-gate functionality in icy winter conditions as they will not freeze shut like a screwgate.

Nick, our Climbing Department Buyer says: “I used the Grivel Mega K6G ice climbing without gloves the other day, and, WOW it IS awesome! Truly unique and VERY easy to manipulate. I liken it to the double back buckles on harnesses, i.e., its something new and different but once you are used to it, it’s a snap, and totally safe and secure.”
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One-Handed Operation [Photo Courtesy of Rock and Ice Magazine]

 

But you don’t have to take our word for it – check out what climbing bloggers are saying about the new Grivel Mega KG6 Twin Gate Carabiner below:

Simple, sleek design work here that is extremely effective. I’ll say it up front.  [Grivel's] Twin Gate technology is the best “locking” biner yet designed, by a fair margin.” – via Cold Thistle (http://bit.ly/1gQiVdk)
“Yes, I’ll use the Mega in place of a locker for belaying and rappelling, and am psyched to finally have a locker that will remain operational in winter conditions.” – via Rock and Ice Magazine (http://bit.ly/1foWtaf)
“When the rope is clipped into the Grivel Twin Gate, it’s not going anywhere. The gate is also the simplest, and the least likely to bind up in cold and icy conditions, or get gummed up with dirt.” – via Splitter Choss (http://bit.ly/1HLKmh8)

The Grivel KG6 Mega Twin Gate is available at The Mountaineer and in our online store, here.

Climbing Route Closures – UPDATE!

Attention climbers!! Game ON at the Upper Washbowl!!

Peregrine

Climb On ! ! ! as of 5/9 THIS Saturday…All Rock Climbing routes on the Upper Washbowl are now OPEN.(ALL Lower Washbowl routes still Closed)

Posted by The Mountaineer on Wednesday, May 6, 2015