Adirondack Rock Climbing Route Closures
Peregrine falcons, an endangered species in New York State, nest on cliffs in the Adirondack Mountains. The population of peregrine falcons has steadily grown since the DEC undertook hacking programs in the Adirondacks in the late 1970s.
Cliffs with known peregrine falcon nesting sites are monitored annually throughout the Adirondacks. Rock climbing routes with active nest sites are temporarily closed to prevent any disturbances that might interfere with the successful raising of the young peregrine falcons.
The closure of climbing routes is based on a number of factors, primarily the route’s proximity and visibility to a nesting site. Each situation is unique and a specific distance from the nest site can not be used to make a closure determination. DEC’s priority is protecting an endangered species; however, attempts are made to maximize the opportunities for climbing at the same time.
At the beginning of the season DEC closes whole or large portions of cliffs where peregrine falcons have regularly nested. This allows them to choose a nesting site without any being troubled by climbing activity. They often choose a site quickly and begin nesting earlier, than when the cliff’s were subject to climbing activities. Climbers benefit because an earlier nesting start results in an earlier fledging of the young and therefore the closed routes are re-opened sooner.
Adirondack Rock Climbing Route Closures – Beginning April 1, 2018
The following rock climbing cliffs and routes are closed to allow peregrine falcons to mate and select nesting sites. Once nest sites are identified DEC will reopen routes that will not interfere with nesting activities.
All routes on the Upper and Lower Washbowl Cliffs are closed.
All routes on the Main Face are closed except the following routes described on pages 38-45 of Adirondack Rock – A Rock Climber’s Guide:
- Goat’s Foot on Rock
- High and Dry
- Big Buddha
- Pearly Gates
- Battle Creek
- Static Cling
- Certified Raw
- Air Male
- Son of a Mother
- Phase III
- Puppies on Edge
- Hang ‘Em High
- Group Therapy
- A Womb with a View
The Amphitheater section of the Black Arches Wall along with routes Hang Time and Black Arch Arête on the Main Wall are closed. All other routes are OPEN.
-Shelving Rock Mountain
All routes on the Main Wall are closed.
-Sleeping Beauty Mountain
All rock climbing routes are closed.
No rock climbing routes on Moss Cliff or Labor Day Wall will be closed this season unless nesting activity is observed.
Climbers are urged to be cautious and observant while climbing in Wilmington Notch. Report any aggressive or agitated peregrine falcon behavior to the DEC Wildlife Office at 518-897-1291 or [email protected].
DEC appreciates the cooperation of the climbing community.
More about Adirondack Rock Climbing Route Closures:
Peregrine Falcons and the Adirondack Rock Climber – Facts about Peregrine Falcons and how rock climbers can help to ensure their successful return to the Adirondacks